Even the hotel concierge at the closest town was a little coy. Somehow you get the feeling that something is wrong, but of course you have no way of working it out. He did tell us that the park closed at 8.00 pm and it was already 6.00 pm. The evening was closing in and I was anxious to catch the light and the park was 24 miles away.   But we arrived in good time and prepared to pay and drive through the park.